Tuesday, 9 January 2007

Better than a punch in the face... Only just!

...well Maxi and I went for our first surf today. Just down the road, sorry Jalan, where the Sofitel is we went out into the slops. Max took his NSP which is about 5'6". I took my short board as well. All the long boards are part of a freight consignment that we have coming in on Friday.

Been a while since I rode anything but a 9' + and here I was on a 6'4" Fish. Very different let me tell you.

However, had a ball. It was 3-4' slops and the fish was a nice fast manoeuvrable board. I had a great time.

We both did. I saw Max getting out, he was further down the beach, just then a set came through, I took the first wave, a right, dropped down dug in at the bottom and headed back on up, snap! Off the lip and down into a cutback, back around and they one quick up the face before the whole lot came down with me in the white water, perfect wave to finish the session on.

But enough about me.

Wandering up onto the shore I could see Maxi approaching. I then figured out he was crying. I ran to him. While wrapping his leg rope around his board a wave had come in and given his board a shove which must have flicked around and given him a smack on the right cheek. Split the skin and bruised the whole socket.


Nasty little sucker! The eye, not Maxi. Should be an interesting black eye though. This photo was taken after bathing, oh of course then Kumang had made us some Nasi Goreng for lunch which we sat down to eat, delicious (She made so much I am having it again tonight for dinner, yum!) then I got around to taking the photo.

If he can just keep that shiner until the 22nd Jan when he starts school he could get some instant cred.

We also met an English bloke in the surf called Nick. Lives in the Gang behind us somewhere. Seems a friendly sort. I am sure we will see more of him.

Anyway, I have work to do. It isn't all just holidays here. More from us later

Peace!

1 comment:

mikemcmach10 said...

Looking good bro...luv to all. Hope the move was a success...looks like it was. Looking forward to being there in March.
Cheers, Mike